April 2005 – Are Man Made Diamonds a Good Alternative?

“April is the cruelest month, breeding lilacs out of the dead land, mixing memory and desire, stirring dull roots with spring rain.” – T S Elliot


“As a result of all the rain drops here comes the color�it is Spring” -ce

These carnelian briolette drops compliment the yellow gold bar earrings. They dangle and dance and create excitement. We love this shade of orange. Time to celebrate with a splash of color.

CED – News & Events

MODERN JEWELER March 2005 – Our ” Linear” Stackable rings, from the Streamline collection, are featured as men’s wedding band options.

In March, Claudia Endler Designs participated in the San Francisco Contemporary Craft Market, displaying some of our newest creations. It was our first time showing in SF and many patrons thought our distinctive look was refreshing. One thing we noticed was that people loved mixing our rings with their more organic jewelry. Injecting something new created a wonderful contrast and compliment to the organic stackable rings they already owned. We love seeing how people express their own style. And for those of you who have not been to the Bay Area in a while, think about taking a trip. “Breathtaking” is all we have to say.

May 14-15th (Saturday-Sunday) – The Brewery Artist Complex will be having their semi-annual Artwalk. Claudia Endler Designs will be exhibiting at the Telemachus Studio. More details will follow in our next edition. In the meantime, log on to www.breweryartwalk.com


Hold This… at Sculpture to Wear Gallery
Contemporary Objects, Wearable Art and Jewelry Exhibition

Hold: (verb – past and past part. held) 1 grasp, carry, or support. 2 keep or detain. 3 have in one’s possession.

March 24 – April 24 – This curated show explores different vessels and objects from various artists, peaking the curiosity and stimulating the imagination. Viewed as both serious and whimsical, in the usual Sculpture to Wear fashion, one has but to just pick it up and hold it… and, well, possibly carry it away.

Sculpture to Wear Gallery
808 11th Street (at Montana Avenue)
Santa Monica, CA 90403

APRIL’S FEATURE: Man Made Diamonds. A good alternative?
The Engagement Ring Phenomenon: Part VII

Diamond was discovered to be carbon in 1796. It took more than 150 years to invent a method of diamond synthesis. The secret was pursued by many scientists, but not unlocked until the 1950s, when Swedish and American researchers synthesized diamond almost simultaneously. Pressures of over 55,000 atmospheres, temperatures of 1400 �C and molten iron changed graphite to diamond.

Synthetic diamond is diamond produced through chemical or physical processes in a laboratory. Like naturally occurring diamond, it is composed of a three-dimensional carbon crystal. Synthetic diamonds are also called cultured diamonds, manufactured diamonds, and artificial diamonds.

Synthetic diamonds were first produced on February 16, 1953 in Stockholm, Sweden, by the QUINTUS project of ASEA, Sweden’s major electrical manufacturing company. Using a bulky apparatus designed by Baltzar von Platen, pressure was maintained within the device at an estimated 83,000 atmospheres for an hour. A few small crystals were produced, but the discovery was kept secret.

As of 2004, several companies have introduced high-quality synthetic diamonds to the general market. In a warehouse in Sarasota, Fla., a company, called Gemesis, grows diamonds in high-pressure, high-temperature crystal growth chambers that resemble washing machines. The device bathes a tiny sliver of natural diamond in molten graphite at 1500 �C and 58,000 atm. This produces a 2.8-carat rough diamond that can be cut to 1.5 carats. Gemesis diamonds have a yellow tint, which is rare in natural diamonds and, therefore, a valuable aesthetic trait. The yellow tint occurs when less than five out of each 100,000 carbon atoms in the diamond crystal lattice are replaced with nitrogen atoms. Technically, it is a contaminant, but colored diamonds are very popular and are sold for more money. The cost of a Gemesis yellow diamond is roughly 30% less than their natural fancy colored counterpart.

Apollo Diamond, based in Boston, Massachusetts, uses the low-pressure technique of chemical vapor deposition (CVD) to produce larger, less expensive diamonds with greater control over impurities. The diamond produced is a single crystal, as opposed to the polycrystalline patchworks formerly produced by CVD. This greater measure of control allows Apollo Diamond to produce diamonds of various colors, including colorless, pink, blue, honey brown, and even black. The ability to control the intentional introduction of impurities, “doping”, is necessary for the creation of diamond semiconductor devices.

Chatham laboratory grows some of the best quality gemstones and also creates colored diamonds. We feel there is nothing wrong with synthetic diamonds. They are attractive and have an appealing price point. The key is proper identification and distinction from natural diamond. Chatham, like Gemesis and Apollo, inscribes its larger lab-grown gems to aid detection. Major laboratories, such as GIA, can conclusively identify synthetic diamonds. Some people opt for these created diamonds in lieu of their natural counterparts in favor of preserving natural resources and over concern of supporting “conflict diamonds”.

(Some of the above information came from articles in Wired Magazine, Chemical & Engineering News and GIA.)


Never heard of it? If you have not, you are likely to hear more in the near future. Moissanite is a very rare mineral that was first discovered in fragments of the meteorite at Diablo Canyon or Meteor Crater in Arizona, and is typically found in iron-nickel meteorites. It was named in honor of its discoverer, Nobel Prize winner, Dr. Ferdinand Henri Moissan. Synthetic moissanite is also known as silicon carbide (SiC) after its chemistry or by the trade name, carborundum.

Moissanite grown in laboratories is now being cut as gemstones and they are used as diamond simulants. Moissanite brings to the jeweler’s table a similar index of refraction and better than twice the fire of diamond, but is only slightly less expensive, due to the difficulty in growing the crystals. Moissanite is causing quite a stir in the jewelry markets.

As a diamond simulant, artificial moissanite is very hard to differentiate from diamond. It is very hard at rated at 9.25 (diamond is 10) and has a high index of refractivity of 2.6 – 2.7 (diamond’s IR is slightly lower at 2.42). Unlike other diamond simulants, moissanite is highly thermally conductive, like diamond. Unfortunately, it is this property that is used to test for the authenticity of real diamonds. Other tests can be used to differentiate the two. Moissanite is hexagonal, not isometric, and therefore it is doubly refractive. A close look at moissanite gemstones should show double facet edges, whereas a diamond’s cut edges are singular in appearance. Moissanite is also slightly less dense than diamond and is rarely perfectly clear of color. Typically, you’ll see pale shades of green. Flaws are absent in natural moissanite. Tiny, white, ribbon-like structures are a result of the growing process. The synthetic SiC has many uses in hightech ceramics, electrical components, abrasives, ball bearings, semi-conductors and extremely hard saws and armor.

Next month we will compare diamonds to cubic zirconia and zircon.

“The ring looks so good on her finger. Thanks for your help.” – CJ, Designer

THE WAY OF CHIC: Style should be communicated through your stationary and business cards.

STYLE RECOGNITION: Stylish impressions come in many forms.

Web presence, print, packaging or a personal note, all give the opportunity to express yourself to others and present a clear message about your business.

Ladder Design is one of those rare jewels among boutique graphic design firms. Ladder Design is driven by the talented force of Ania Borysiewicz, creative director and founder. When you meet her, her passion is self-evident. Employing her diverse palette of international experience and design influence, Ania has made it her mission to both educate and serve the market place with varied approaches to design that are rarely found under one roof.

Educated and raised in Poland, Germany, and the United States, Ania has been exposed to a broad range of thought and culture. The result is a fiery offering of passion, intellect and functionality that she can deliver in any mix to best represent the client. “When I design for a new or existing brand I want to make sure that it’s durable as well as on target,” Ania says. “This means applying a design approach that not only creates recognition, but also builds confidence and inspires expansion.”

Imagine the possibilities… ania@ladderdesign.com 310.576.3535www.ladderdesign.com

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